A Selection of Questions and Answers

Why have your Engraved Silver Cups increased in price so significantly?

In June 2006 several aspects contributed to the raise in my cup prices. You may remember reading about the recent price hike in international copper prices in the world markets, but this is NOTHING compared to the escalation in international SILVER prices. Please remember this topic is regarding a precious metal SILVER and then you can imagine the ramifications. My Engraved Silver Cups will continually rise in price.

The international silver rates have more than doubled since I last made an order for my silver cups. I was also slapped with a 200% labor increase by my spinner (this includes spinning, engraving, polishing, gold plating and etching etc...). The price was determined and I then offered this price to the magic fraternity to see if there was any interest. I was happy to learn that there were still many who were willing to pay these higher prices for quality and the opportunity to own a set of my Engraved Silver Cups. Another cause for the higher prices is because of the fall in the international dollar rate. Anyone who follows the world markets will immediately recall that the dollar has dropped against other world currencies in the world market place, which in turn has again affected the price of my cups.

Please also note: all of these price raises are OUT OF MY CONTROL. Therefore on October 31st 2007 I was unfortunately forced to once again increase ALL my cup prices. I realize this will place my cups out of the reach of some of you who would like to purchase them and I am sincerely sorry for this, but as I mentioned above my cup business is luckily only a very small home based side business, which is critical to understand, because it would be impossible for me to support myself solely from the already small amount of cup and ball sales I presently receive. I persevere with my cup business to supply those discerning individuals in the magic community who are fortunate enough or determined enough to afford my Engraved Silver Cups. I sincerely appreciate everyone who has ever supported my endeavor to attempt to supply something remarkable to the magic fraternity by purchasing a set of my cups.

 

How can I purchase a set of your cups in England?

You can telephone England 44 (1256) 354-178 (within the UK telephone 01256 354178) and leave your order by voice mail. Please leave a return phone number and email address, so we can contact you.  Our business is solely a small internet business, so please email your questions or order to: Mystere24a@aol.com   
 


 

 

What are the cups made from and how are they made?

The cups are made from a solid disk of silver, which is expertly hand spun. There are no additional parts. After the cups are spun the bottom bead (ring at mouth of cup) is rolled against the side of the cup. Two swage rings are then also spun into the cups using a different principal and finally the cups are meticulously hand engraved, etched with a limited edition number, punched with the Brett Sherwood stamp inside the top of each cup, hallmarked with a 925 stamp and finally given a beautiful polish.
 


 

Is the gold real gold?

Yes, real 24 karat gold electroplated. The gold plate is applied onto the sterling after the cup has been engraved.
 


 

How resilient is the gold wash on your gold and silver/gold cups?
 

My supplier has supplied me with a new resilient hard wearing 24 karat gold electroplating, which should last extremely well depending on how much the cups are used and in what way they are handled. The new coating looks amazing and is thick enough to appear like SOLID GOLD!


"I have now used the silver cups in several performances and almost virtually have not left the gold cups untouched and unhandled since I got them. They have a wonderful "feel" to them and, while my routines employ no vigorous banging, clashing and sliding of the cups against each other, through probably 500 runs through my routine, the gold cups show absolutely no wear and no loss of shine. My routine does nest and unnest the cups a few times, and, so far, there are no scuffs on the finish, etc. They are so good that I plan to get the silver/gold set."
Cup and Ball Expert - John Mendoza

 



How would you compare your cups to other cups on the market?

You may think my comments a little bias, so let someone with expert knowledge answer your question. Please check out James Riser's web page which is all about what makes a good set of cups with lots of comparisons and many styles of different cups and my cups will be found at the end of his list as he says "I have saved the best for last!"www.jamesriser.com
 



Will you be adhering to the limited editions?

I am contracted with the Dai Vernon Estate not to exceed the numbers of the agreed engraved cups. Therefore no more that 1400 total sets of standard sized engraved cups will be produced. First time available in history and the last.
 



What is the availability and measurements or your cups?

I have a small supply of cups currently in stock, but because of the high production costs required for silver items and the work intensive detail required I can only order in limited amounts at a time. I anticipate minor delays in the supply line, but I am determined to do my utmost to keep the production line rolling over without delay. The sizes of my cups are; height 7cm, mouth diameter 6.8cm, top diameter 4.7, and depth 6.7cm.
 



Have you had any problems using credit card for international transactions?

Yes, prior to using your credit card for purchasing my cups please contact your credit card company (Visa/ Master Card) and tell them to please make sure they do not have any automatic international security blocks for out-of-country sales, as this could further delay your shipment being sent on time - thank you. This has happened several times. This is why it is important to leave your email when ordering in case of any unexpected problem arises with your order and will be less expensive to reply.
 



It says on the Riser site that every engraving is different?

Yes, each "style" of cup has completely different engravings i.e. the all gold cups are all the same, but they have completely different engraved patterns to the all silver sets and the silver/gold sets etc. Check out the various detailed photos on my web site for clarification. As they say "a picture is worth a thousand words".
 



Are your cups hand made or made using a computer?

Yes, all my cups are entirely hand made. They are masterfully spun by hand then a plethora of intricate designs are engraved onto each cup by hand. It takes one master engraver about one full day to finish engraving one cup. I have always preferred hand-spun cups to the new CNC (turned or lathed out of a solid block of brass or copper etc.) computer cups being made more recently today. CNC cups are made by a computer program and they are all exactly the same, but by contrast I much prefer the human element of art and talent required in making my cups by hand and this gives me a sense of pride performing sleight-of-hand with these objects constructed by talented hands themselves. Those of you who have had the opportunity to hold my cups will understand what I am talking about. I have been told they simply "feel" perfect. I like to use a snowflake analogy about my cups, because at first appearance a set of my hand-made cups will appear 'all-alike' - like snowflakes appear alike - but with closer inspection you soon realize that they are all each somehow marvelously individual and I think this is both wonderful and profound.

 



Because your cups are expensive I am worried about using them. Do they dent easily and or wear well?

My cups are very ornamental, but they are not fragile. On the contrary, I specifically did not want a thin walled cheap tin sounding cup. My cups were intentionally made on the heavy end at approximately six ounces of solid sterling silver to each cup. Therefore, they are substantial in weight and they 'feel' safer than one would expect from their intricate appearing exterior. I have been using a set of my own cups for over six months and they only have normal wear marks that any cups will incur and no dents even though I use a wand to tap and turn-over the cups, but I do not go crazy smashing them together or hammering them with my wand etc. Because of the investment required, I can understand your concern, but instead of leaving your set of cups at home on the shelf, remember they were specifically designed as "working" cups in a close-up situation where their beauty and detail can be fully appreciated.


"When I first received the silver cups, I was pleasantly surprised. While the pictures are great, you have to actually see them in person to appreciate them. They look wonderful, and had a great feel, but my first reaction was to showcase them, not actually use them. Over the course of the first few weeks, I got more daring and found that these cups are made to be used, not just sit on a shelf. I was very careful at first, but now don't worry at all."

Randy Ehler - California, USA.

 



What designing details make your cups original other than beautiful exterior work?

The internal and external design and dimensions are original to myself. My cups were specially designed with a stepped outer beading/swages (rings) shaped to help eliminate accidentally toppling during the course of one's routine and the approximate six ounces aids in this as well. They are actually difficult to accidentally knock over, but can easily be pulled over backwards with a wand. Special attention was made to allow a very comfortable hand placement resulting in each finger and thumb having its very own isolation point between separate swage rings placing ones fingers and thumb into a perfect holding position to facilitate perfect leverage and ease of operation. By gripping the cup with the 2nd finger (and the thumb opposite), between the two center rings, one will notice that the third finger also rests comfortably between rings and on top of the bottom bead. This position will automatically position the little finger in an ideal position for any unseen stealthy activity underneath the cup's edge without any worry of slipping. My cups were made intentionally to fit ones hands -"like-a-glove"

 


The largest bottom base bead (ring) facilitates catching a cup during the standard cup through cup drop-through illusion. If desired the cups are also designed to accomplish the backward "roll-over" flourish beautifully. Inside the cup's mouth please note the 925 sterling hallmark. Opposite the hallmark please note the limited edition serial number. Inside the top of each cup can be seen my quality stamp Brett Sherwood (BS) logo. When in the stacked position, please note that my professional tooling has eliminated any excess wobbling and each cup stops nicely on top of the lower partner's upper swage (ring). My cups were also designed to intentionally stack "higher-up" than any traditional cup. In a stacked condition, this allows a greater cavity space and this void space will comfortably contain three 1⅛" balls while in the stacked position. The balls will remain nicely balanced on the lower cup when uncovered for a beautiful display. For even greater visibility the use of a larger single manipulation ball can be utilized up to an amazing 1⅜" (see striped ball in photo below). My cups were also intentionally designed to easily accommodate a regulation size tennis ball as an amazing final load.

 

 



Will your cups tarnish easily and if so how do I clean them?

Several people have asked me about this topic. I have never really given it much prior thought, because I have been using my silver cups everyday for over six months and I haven't noticed any tarnishing. Recently because of these questions regarding tarnishing I did some research and found something very interesting. Silver is tarnished by sulfur-containing materials like wool, felt and oily salts from your fingers and, if not removed, may show up as corrosion patterns that may require professional help. Never store your cups in any type of plastic, rubber bands, or newspaper, because these items contain high amounts of sulfur, which will accelerate tarnishing. The best way to minimize tarnish is to USE YOUR STERLING CUPS! Constantly using your cups will keep them bright and shiny. If you use your sterling cups regularly, you will only need to polish twice a year, at most. If you need to ever polish your cups use a very soft cloth, such as flannel, and a non-abrasive silver polish, never toothpaste! Keep polish away from gold accents. Your silver will scratch and chafe as it is used and washed. This is a normal and natural part of silver's character! The interlacing of scratches eventually gives your silver the soft, rich patina that makes it more beautiful with age. This process allows sterling to become a cherished family heirloom.

 


 

Why are your cups so expensive?

First and foremost my cups are made from a solid precious metal - pure sterling silver (.925). Some of my cups have added accents of pure 24 Karat gold, which obviously increases the price of the silver/gold or all gold plated sterling cups respectively. My cups are all handmade, i.e. masterfully hand spun and then intricately engraved also by master craftsmen.


A few years ago I went on a trip to Santa Fe, New Mexico and purchased a hand made silver belt buckle made by Navajo Indian artists. I paid $350 for this beautiful buckle and it weighs less than a quarter of the weight of EACH of my cups (do your own mathematics here). Intensive top quality artistic hand labor is prohibitively expensive these days and in this modern age of machines and computers it is harder and harder to find talented craftsmen willing and able to do this work.


The hand labor involved to masterfully spin and then hand engrave each cup is very expensive. An example of hand labor on a 9" hand made Bowie knife can fetch $900 and this is a steel knife blade - not silver! Each of my cups takes a master engraver about one full day to engrave. A master jeweler/engraver in the USA can charge easily about $25-$35 an hour and if you multiply this by 8 hours you come to $200-$280 for labor on each cup (US labor prices)! Add the development time required to design my tooling, silver, spinning costs, etching, stamping, polishing, bag, balls, certificate and finally three years of invested time developing every fine detail and this illustrates just how my cups are priced.

 
Compare the following investments:
1. A laptop computer can cost $4000 and will require updating in 2-4 years.
2. A car can cost $30,000 and need replaced after 5-10 years.
3. My cups cost a fraction of these investments and will NEVER need replaced and in time will actually increase in value!


My cups are a limited edition and thankfully they have received rave reviews not only for their stunning appearance, but also because they are considered an improvement over the 'king-of-cup designs' - the "Paul Fox Cups". My cups are heavier, will hold larger loads and although beautiful they are also sturdy enough to be considered "workers" (sturdy functional cups which can actually be used in daily performance instead of gathering dust on a shelf at home).

 
After considering all the work that has gone into producing each of my cups, I trust this explains much of why the Brett Sherwood Cups are considered an affordable investment to treasure your entire life!

 


   

Do you have all the different styles of your cups always available?

Quality is always my top priority and I never want to compromise the quality of my cups simply to fulfill orders. I believe this is the wrong philosophy to have in any business.

 
The reason I have mentioned my business philosophy here is simply to emphasize that there may be waiting periods between shipments of my cups, because they will not be released until they are all correctly completed and this quality control takes time, especially as everything is hand made. I wouldn't expect anything less if I invested in a set of my cups myself.

 
If you pay for a set of my cups via PayPal or leave your credit card details you will receive your cups immediately or you will be first in line to receive your cups from the next supply I receive. No money will be withdrawn from your credit card account until your cups are ready to send. We will try our best to keep a healthy stock of cups at all times, but in the unlikely event that our stocks are depleted by over demand we thank you in advance for your patience.

 


 

Where did you get your ideas to create your amazing cups?

The initial impetus to create my own cups came from the beautiful silver engraved cups Dai Vernon used, (which were apparently based on a Paul Fox plaster mold). I never thought to copy the Paul Fox cups, because I felt they had restrictions that I could hopefully improve upon.

I only designed my cups to fulfill my own strict standards in an attempt to not only produce the most beautiful cups ever created, but I demanded improvements in the technical functioning designs of current existing cups, to enable larger loads, larger nesting void space (attic) and utilize the illusion of 'the load appearing larger than the cup it was produced from'. My cups were intentionally kept to a close-up size, because I wanted the intricate engravings to be fully appreciated, plus the final loads 'kill' at close proximity. I also desired a smoother rounded shape than a square angular type cup shape, because I felt this to be a much more elegant shape. The raising of the upper swage ring was a radical decision by me, as I was unaware of anyone doing this previously and this was just one of many alterations I made on my cup design. "Economy of Space" was my motto and although the raising of the upper swage does effect the stacking of the cups slightly I had to be ruthless in the design and ask myself "What are these cups used for"? The answer "They are used for nothing except doing the cups and balls!" Therefore, the swage could be raised, because it was much more important to have more load space than a deeper nesting set of cups!

"My ambition was always, to create the perfect cup for - me!" I never dreamed of the reception I have already received from so many knowledgeable magicians regarding my cups. I am delighted that there are so many magicians that appreciate not only the obvious beauty of my cups, but personally more rewarding to me is their recognition of the technical refinements I utilized in my quest for the perfect set of cups.

 


 

My sincere thanks go to Mr. Tilman Gruenewald of The Netherlands for this very interesting Q&A story:

Dear Brett,

The cups have arrived today. Thanks a lot. They are great. I will take some more time to write you again tonight, but can already say that I am very (!) happy with them. I was also positively surprised by the fact that you applied your smooth range discount though the cups were ordered before the discount was introduced. Thanks a lot! I have to mention, however, that I found a (very) small dent in the middle ring of one of the cups. I definitely do NOT intend to return the cups for refund because of that. I like them a lot and dent really is rather tiny. However, I am of course asking myself whether such a dent can be smoothed away and whether I can send the cup in for repair? Given how tiny the dent, I am not entirely sure whether this would be worth my and your effort, but you will understand that I would like to take some more time thinking about it. Just to say it again: I am VERY happy with the look and feel of your cups. Excellent work.

With kind regards, Tilman

 

...continued
[I offered Tilman a complete exchange of his cups or a paid repair of the small dent, but before this could be decided upon Tilman took his cups to a silver jeweler for expert advice and this interesting incident took place.]

Dear Brett,

I went to get a second opinion about the small dent and by coincidence entered the shop of an elderly, soon to retire silver jeweler who turned out to have some professional experience in metal spinning. When he saw your cups he basically went down on his knees because he was so impressed by your work. He told me not to worry about the small dent, which, he said, could easily and inexpensively be removed completely by inserting a tool into the cup and hammering the bead back into shape from the other side. He also pointed out that the dent really was very minor and did in no way diminish the value of your work. Having witnessed this expert's immense enthusiasm about your smooth silver cups, I now think that I was being overly picky when complaining about the dent and I am feeling very sorry for any inconvenience my last emails may have caused. I therefore want to apologize and thank you again for your impressive service and for taking my concerns so seriously (more seriously than they deserved). Special thanks for your very kind last email, offering to replace the set. Last but not least thanks a lot for your very beautiful cups. I very much hope to have enough money in the near future to buy another set.


Tilman Gruenewald - The Netherlands

 


 

Why Do You Use The Dai Vernon Name To Help Sell Your Fantastic Cups - You Do Not Need To Use His Name?

I hope I can clarify WHY I use the Dai Vernon name in my advertisements. First of all my cups were inspired by the famous Dai Vernon cups and prior to marketing my engraved cups I wished to gain the acceptance of the Dai Vernon Estate out of professional courtesy and primarily out of my deep personal respect for 'The Professor'. My cups were designed as my own personal "dream cup", but I would have kept the original prototype to myself if The Dai Vernon Estate did not wish me to continue with an endorsement. I was very happy to receive 'The Estates' valuable acceptance to endorse my cups and I trust many of you are happy my cups are available as well? I truly respect the name of Dai Vernon and display his name with pride as a tribute to the great man and I am honored to be associated with his name. I know I cannot please everyone in my life, but I feel if I had not approached this project in a professional manner and instead simply put my silver engraved cups on the market without contacting 'The Dai Vernon Estate' there would have been hell to pay! Instead of one email I believe there would have been countless negative emails voicing contempt in my direction. The Dai Vernon Estate has granted me the legal right to display Dai Vernon’s photographs and use of his name. Out of respect and as a lasting tribute to Dai Vernon I proudly display his name, which in return establishes my cups as an item of quality and beauty and in return I hope my cups continue to conjure stories of 'The Professor'. And So It Goes...
 


 

A friend of mine here in California has your Engraved Silver Cups and I was utterly 'Knocked-Out' at the balance and quality. However, my question is based on my own paranoia - I suppose? I am very interested in buying a set of your engraved cups, BUT I am worried that I will be too frightened to use them and my investment will sit on the shelf. Do many people inquire about this?

I am very glad you asked me this question, because not only do people email me regarding this very question, but also I have seen this same topic mentioned on different websites (some started by other magic venders as well as the 'sour-grape' people) and I would like to finally include an in-depth response here. First and foremost it is 100% OK to worry about damaging your cups, because they are expensive, BUT this is HIGHLY UNLIKELY to happen, because my cups were intentionally constructed out of very heavy walled silver. Yes, I could of saved lots of money making the cups thinner, but my main aim was to not sacrifice the quality and durability. These cups were made for the top working professionals who perform constantly fulltime around the world. I have used the same set in my close-up show now for over two years and they still look GREAT! Yes, there are very minor scratches, BUT I have 'LIVED AND LOVED' working everyday for over two years with my cups and a few scratches actually add to their ancient engraved appearance! My cups are like any luxury item, i.e. a nice new car looks beautiful sitting polished in your garage and the new watch looks nice in your drawer at home, but we all treat ourselves occasionally and this is one more instance where you will never regret 'working' with your cups or wearing that new watch or driving that new car. Here is a priceless piece of philosophy " Remember there were people who 'turned down' the dessert on the Titanic"! I have no problem with collectors who will resale my cups in a mint condition at a later date to make a profit, but they never intended 'working' with my cups in the first place and should NEVER be confused with performers like yourself. They are interested in MONEY or perserving magical prosperity, but they NEVER intended to ever perform with the cups, as they could get scratched and loose value. Personally, I truly believe the REAL VALUE of my cups is in the fun and satisfaction you will enjoy every working day of your life rehearsing and performing with my cups - they are truly "magical". Remember none of us live-forever, so what are you waiting for? If you can afford my cups in the first place, please do not cheat yourself out of all the satisfaction awaiting your every performance. LIFE IS FOR LIVING, so treat yourself and get busy living.
 


 

Your work is stunning. My question for you regards the different attributes of brass and copper. What are the advantages of either or is it simply one of personal taste? The copper is beautiful and would be my pick of the two for appearance alone.

Thank you for the compliment! I believe you should primarily get which metal cup you personally like the appearance of, as long as it is a top quality functional cup, it should last a lifetime, therefore you should like your choice. Remember you get what you pay for!


Regarding the attributes of the copper and brass, there are several:


First obviously is the color, do you prefer brass (a light gold color) or copper (my special copper has an additional rich rose glow). Both will tarnish eventually. Will the color contrast nicely with your manipulation and final loads (balls / fruit etc), mat, accessories (wand), background (your clothes). All these small details are important.

Apart from the physical appearance, these two different metals have very different densities. I believe this basically means how compact the metal is per unit volume etc., but this will not affect the physical limitations of your cups. Anyway, in relationship between the two, brass is a much harder compacted metal and thus is more difficult to spin by hand (so I have been told many times by my spinner). Most hand spun cups are made from copper, apart from the Johnson cups, but these are CNC (computer controlled lathe) not hand spun. My copper and brass cups are expertly hand spun and weigh a little more than the Johnson's at 6&1/2 ounces, but they actually feel lighter because of the distribution of weight = perfectly balanced. I personally find the Johnson’s' top heavy, because of the CNC lathe leaving thicker material inside the top wall. Anyway, I digress... because of the difference in metals, brass has a nice 'ring', whereas copper does not 'ring' like brass.

 


 

I'm considering purchasing a set of your lovely cups. I just have a few questions that I hope you can help me with? I've read in your FAQ that to clean the cups, you recommend to only polish the silver twice a year. What about the gold? Is there a need to clean those? If I do damage/dent the cups in the future, do you do any repairs? Or can I just get it done locally? I'm currently staying in Australia. I thank you for your time in responding to my questions.

Thank you for your interest in my silver/gold cups. Regarding the polishing of the gold and silver, as I mention in the Q&A - the more you handle the silver cups the more the cups should NOT require polishing. I have been using the all silver set for about two years and they only required polishing once, following a two months rest. This will make you practice more (which is a good thing), but once you receive your cups you will never want them out of your hands anyway -- they feel great! I assume this non-tarnishing will apply to the gold plate as well? However, I have not handled these extensively myself. I have not checked into ‘how to’ avoid gold tarnishing, but there are several chemicals that will tarnish the gold and or silver. Also if you use small baseballs, please store them separate from the cups, as the oil and chemicals in the baseball leather can badly tarnish your gold plated cups. Never attempt to polish with ‘Brasso’ polish -- this is abrasive and will REMOVE the gold plate -- not a good idea. If you intend investing in a set of engraved cups and only if you can obviously afford it - may I suggest you also invest in a set of smooth copper for long practice sessions. Several magicians have purchased these copper/brass sets to practice with and perform with on general situations and they use their engraved silver sets for the more up market occasions.

Denting can happen to any type of metal cup if dropped onto a shape edge, but if you are careful, there should be no problem with denting. I never use the crash vanish (hitting two cups together to vanish the ball between), because the silver on the rings is slightly thinner than the straight walls. This is because it has been stretched fractionally thinner during spinning and can dent doing this move. Always, remember that these cups are made from silver and should be handled appropriately… i.e., not crashing them together or banging them unnecessarily with a wand. One person said he dented a side swage (ring) by dropping a cup and was able to have it removed by a local jeweler, who pushed it out from inside, but if it had been dented on the base bead (bottom ring) this would have been very difficult to remove, because the dent cannot be pushed out from inside the enclosed looped base bead. If you have read through all the testimonials on my website you will see many magicians have favorably commented on the sturdiness and solidity of my engraved cups. They are definitely made for working with on a daily bases and common sense should guide you. However, unfortunately some individuals are apparently devoid of common sense. If in doubt about a potentially heavy-handed cup move, remember they are silver -- leave it out or exchange it for a different alternative (gentler) handling. However, please do not be frightened by my comments, because personally I have had NO problems in over two years working with my own personal engraved cups.

 


 

Is each of your cups turned individually by hand or do you use a duplication lathe? I would imagine that doing one cup at a time by hand would take some considerable time, especially making sure that there are no errors.

Yes, you are correct, it does take a long time to hand spin my cups, which are individually spun. The benefit of this method is the final result - QUALITY. This was the method Danny Dew used to spin his famous Paul Fox designed cups. You get what you pay for! My new copper and brass cups are also individually hand spun and finished to a remarkably high standard and I would have it no other way. The profession I love (magic) deserves nothing less than the finest in quality tools (props) I am capable of producing. Just as musicians seek out the finest in musical instruments to highlight and compliment their musical prowess, magicians should respect their art and themselves enough to do the same. Many magicians spend years perfecting their sleight-of-hand skills and should purchase tools (cups in this instance), which emphasize their technical abilities and in the same instance these tools (props) should represent YOU and the QUALITY of your magic image. Yes, you can use paper cups if paper cups are what and how you want to frame your magic, but if you are reading this you obviously are seeking the finest money can buy? If you wish to appear impromptu or alternative - paper can work on a limited bases. I agree that quality presentation of magic is what sells you, not quality cups, BUT quality presentation in conjunction with quality cups is an UNBEATABLE COMBINATION! Frame your magic abilities with quality and you will always have the advantage toward creating that professional image. Regarding quality: my new 'smooth' cups have no gaps in the base bead etc. and I firmly believe that these are the finest copper and brass cups being currently hand spun in the world today. I personally prefer using a cup made by a talented artist (spinner), than a cup cut out of a solid block of metal by a computerized machine (cloned), but this is a personal choice. Further, apart from the Paul Fox design, why are the original Danny Dew hand spun cups so enviable today? Because a talented artist (spinner) created them – individually! This is the same attention to detail I am now applying to my entire range of hand spun cups. Whichever cups you decide to invest in, I wish you all much enjoyment with the greatest close-up trick ever invented - 'The Cups and Balls'.

 


 

Can you suggest cleaners for your brass and copper cups?

Although I personally have never used the following cleaner, I must credit Mr. John D. Clarkson for kindly recommending an American automotive cleaner called "NevR Dull" as very effective. It is chemically-treated cotton wadding that comes in a tin. It is used by classic automobile devotees to keep the chrome sparkling on their automobiles. I am told it does a fantastic job on brass and copper. In fact, it apparently cleans better than ‘Brasso’ and other cleaners. The NevR Dull cotton turns black and removes even more grime. (Note: Not for use on silver or gold plating).

 


 

A BIG thank you goes to Mr. Bill Boroska who queried a small inconsistency he noticed after studying his cups over several weeks. Upon my offer to replace them, as per my 30-day warranty offer, I received this very perceptive and astute reply.

Funny thing, I was talking to a friend of mine (my partner, actually) about the cups and I pointed out what I call the little "dimples." I was sternly admonished. "Bill, this is the charm of having something hand made! Each is slightly different. There ARE little imperfections. They're one of a kind! Shut up!" And, of course, he's right! Don't give it another thought. The cups handle like a dream and I love them
(maybe even more since my much-deserved lecture!).

 


 

I feel fairly confident that the gold plate will hold up, over time, to this cup-through-cup move, but wanted to double check and get your thoughts.

 

I always do the cup thru cup with never a problem in over three years, but I use my first all silver engraved prototype set (no gold plate involved). All I can suggest is first of all to do it gently (as you already do), because silver is flexible. I've owned gold plated items that have lasted years with continual use with no show of wear, BUT eventually the gold will show wear after years of use ... such is life. However, there are two good things to remember 1) you will be gaining years of enjoyment pleasure USING your cups (what they were made for). 2) if they ever show wear  remember it would be possible to have them re-plated to match again from a gold plater or jeweler. I plan on offering a gold plating service eventually I the future, so if you require any plating please email me.

 


(The following comes from Phil Peterson - with many thanks!)

My gold rings have acquired a discoloration, I know its gold, but it’s behaving like brass tarnishing? Anyway, if you know of a way to polish gold, let me know.  I'll bring these by a jeweler this weekend & see if they have any suggestions.  If I get any usable advice, I'll share it with you.

===================

I brought my cups to a jeweler friend & he was able to correct the problem.  He used a product called Tarnex, but just on the gold area. Tarnex is easily purchased at the drug store or Wal-Mart.  He took a q-tip & dipped it in the Tarnex, swabbed a little on the tarnished part, then rinsed it under water & viola! Good as new. One other thing about the Tarnex product - it is a chemical, & a poisonous one at that.  The instructions should be read & reread.  Last, but not least, I personally would not use it on silver.  The jeweler very carefully applied it to the gold rings on the cups, & took care to rinse it off with water after each application to make sure that the minuscule amount of the chemical that came in contact with the silver didn't stay in contact with it for very long. Tarnex has been around for many years, & it does what it does really well, but, all I'm going to say is, just use it on the gold if your gold is tarnished, rinse it off quickly, & don't use the stuff in the kitchen where you might prepare food.

[Please understand we are passing this information on to you to use at your own risk and discretion. We obviously cannot take any responsibilities should any of the advice in this column not work out to your full satisfaction regarding mistakes or reactions using all chemicals or polishes out of our control. We suggest trying all of these suggestions very carefully and in several swift attempts instead of one long exposure to the chemical which is guaranteed to result in failure.]

 

As for the silver area - I suggest a special chemically impregnated very soft silver cloth. This should buff up the silver areas like new, BUT avoid the gold plating as this could with repeated use remove the gold plating. If you have dark silver tarnish I would suggest a special silver polish, once again avoiding the gold areas. An easy solution is to apply thin masking tape around the gold rings making sure to cover all the gold rings, then polish the silver and buff, finally carefully removing the masking tape to reveal the gold underneath.

 


 

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